![]() ![]() I had a friend get a concussion after getting yanked into a roof on a belay (yes, he wears a climbing helmet now), and if he hadn’t been using a GriGri, his climber would have dropped. In rare circumstances (like rockfall) something could happen to the belayer, and a GriGri will still catch a fall. Especially when climbing outside, some variables are beyond control. What you’re paying for when you buy a GriGri is assisted braking, that is, the ability to lock down on the rope without constant tension from the belayer. #ATC GUIDE MODE HOW TO#No matter which device you’re using, make sure you have a thorough understanding of how to use it before you’re out in the field. ![]() Buying a GriGri (or any other new-fangled device) will never absolve the belayer from being knowledgeable, reliable, and attentive. I repeat: there is no device on the market that will compensate for bad habits or sloppy belaying. NO BELAY DEVICE WILL MAKE UP FOR BAD BELAY TECHNIQUE (You can also compare the GriGri and ATC to other top belay devices in our belay device buying guide.)īefore we get started, there’s one extremely important preface to everything in this article. To put these devices to the test so I could shed insight on these questions, I climbed up all kinds of single pitch and multipitch climbs, indoor and outdoor, trad and sport, long and short. The GriGri is now a household name among climbers, and it’s the second half of our test.įor many climbers, the question remains: which belay device should I use? Is a GriGri worth the investment? Can I get by with a single belay device? Which one should I get first? As is often the case, the answer is…it depends. The GriGri, released in 1991 and named after an African good luck charm, was a revolutionary moment - a belay device with a cam that would actively lock during a fall. The goal was to create a safer descent device than the venerable figure eight, ideally something “as trustworthy as a seatbelt.” In the late 1980s, Petzl assembled a team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay devices. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. More belayer fatigue in some circumstances.Other specific uses (routesetting, simulclimbing, etc.).Enjoy the hulking triceps you will develop.When you buy something through one of the links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. ![]() Set yourself up directly over the second, and pull up slack on the second's line before pulling it through the device. If you don't feel like running out and dropping the coin on a Gri-Gri, a Rocklock or William might help, but the biggest thing is careful rope management. Since you already have an ATC Guide and 10mm rope, I know that doesn't help a lot. If I'm really climbing something long and hard we will be using thin ropes (8.5 doubles or 9.2 single), either of which is just fine in my Reverso 3 (or ATC Guide). It does require extra care in rigging, but if I'm hauling my 10.2 around we are just doing relaxed cragging anyway. There's so much energy saved at the top that the weight is worth it. I've since realized that it's a net gain for me to just haul a Gri-Gri up the climb with me to belay the second. I've tried many biners (including the Positron), and the big, round stock like the Rocklock is best - but still not fun. My Reverso 3 is slightly better, and my B-52 is hugely better. I have a 10.2mm rope for general cragging, and it's very hard to feed in the ATC guide. I have a nice supple 9.8 that works really well.Agreed. 10 mil rope in that device, in auto-lock mode, is too thick. ![]()
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